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Hi Deb,
I have worked with clay for many years
now, and I am really interested in making snow globes. Could you please
help me
find the magic liquid(s) (or recipe) for inside them? The ones I have
made, the
clay stays nice and bright but it forms a white floating film in the
water
Why? Your help would really be
appreciated. Thanks, Jill
Jill—for more
information on making
a snow globe, here is a link I found while performing a Google search: http://www.mybackyard.com/current/134p1.htm.
Without
knowing what
liquid(s) you have used, I really couldn’t advise on what to change
However, if
you follow the Google trail, you will find over 25 thousand links, from
the
science teacher’s page, to the baby food jar recipes.
There
are directions at
glassattic, too:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/MainPages/outdoor_snowglobes_fountains.htm
Please
let us know how the
new globes turn out!
Deb
Now, J Smith writes:
I am interested in Donna
Kato's new metallic clay. I also saw in a magazine, (Jewelry
Crafts on
page 35) that a craftsman, Cassy Muronaka, used gray
telephone
wire as an eye pin. She inserted the telephone wire into soft clay and
then
baked it according to clay directions. The wire bonded to the clay.
Have you
heard of this? I can't seem to find the telephone wire. Do you
have any
ideas?
If you visit
your local second-hand or thrift stores, you will probably find some
wire that
you could split (remove the outer, insulating layer to get to the
colored
wires) and use, or you could go for a product that is making life
easier for a
lot of crafters: It’s called fun wire, and if you do a Google search
for that name,
you will come up with over two million page hits. Here are a couple of
those
links, to give you a jump-start:
http://polymerclayexpress.com/wire.html
http://www.millerwoodcrafts.com/suppllies/fun_wire.htm
You may also be
able to find Fun Wire in your local craft shop. Remember, the smaller
the
gauge, the thicker the wire.
Have Fun!
Deb
Now Marj has a question that has never
crossed MY mind:
I would like to know HOW I can tell if a
pasta
machine has been used for polymer clay. I recently bought a pasta
machine at
the Good Will store. I would like to use it for pasta, but I am not
sure IF it
has been used for polymer clay. Is there any way that I can tell? Is there any special way that I can clean the
machine just in case it HAS been used for polymer
clay? I
read not to put the pasta machine in the dishwasher and not to
soak it in
water.
On the Carol Duvall show, they always say
not to use
the same pasta machine for pasta and for polymer clay. I am NEW to
using
polymer clay, so I don't know what to look for on the pasta machine.
I REALLY enjoy watching Donna Kato on the
Carol
Duvall show. What beautiful projects. And, thank you for being
an inspiration to new polymer clay "artists" :-).
Thank you in advance :-).
Marj
ME, an INSPIRATION? Why, thank you!
How to tell if a
pasta machine has been used for
clay…Hmmm…That is a very interesting question, Marj. In my humble
opinion, any
pasta machine found in a thrift store HAD to have come from a pasta
maker, not
a clayer. Most of us who do both, have multiple pasta machines, (I have
two for
clay and just one for pasta) and we always know another clayer who
could use
another one To check, though, I would turn the machine over and closely
examine
the rollers and scrapers from the bottom. If you see flour and dough
residue, I
would venture to guess that it was used for food, and if you see
ANYTHING in
colors, you should probably assume it was used for clay If it has been
used for
pc, there is no foolproof way to make it safe for food
Just for the record,
around here, we love hand made
ravioli best!
Hungrily,
Deb
Now this letter really did come into pcPolyzine
International Headquarters.
I just wanna see if I actually get a
response from you. Ummmm how is Mona? Mwhahaaa.
Your loving son,
Gregg
Dear
Gregg, here is your
answer:
Call
your mother!
For
other readers, Mona is
our nine-year-old, six-toed dog. Gregg is my eldest child, who lives in
another
town. Clearly, he is also one of our many readers!
Thanks
for writing, Gregg.
Good to know your email program DOES work.
Harrumph!
Deb
I LOVE to hear from readers who have more to add to
what I have said in my column. Debbi from the National Polymer Clay
Guild is
one who wrote in response to my suggestion that you check your local
library
for polymer clay titles:
Hey, Deb you could always send them to the
National
Polymer Clay guild for video and book rentals
Debbi the librarian
Thanks
Thank
YOU for the reminder,
Debbi--
Of
course, all of you should JOIN
the guild first, but you ARE a member, right? IF
not, here is a link you may find useful: http://www.npcg.org/Membership/membership.html
Linda has a sculpting question:
Hi,
A friend sent me your site address --
making the Troll looked like fun.
I collect Dollhouse Miniatures; I am
looking for someone to make some figures designed like the "Suzy's Zoo"
characters. They are shown on cards, and are dressed & do people
things.
There is a duck, a turtle, goose, bear, etc.; they can be dressed in
the FIMO,
not fabric.
Can you suggest someone I could
contact? Or could you forward my email
to someone who might want to do them for me?
Thanks for any help you can give
me. I will come back to see the Troll's body - it is neat &
something I
could never do!
Take care,
Linda ^..^<
I
will throw this one to our
readers. If you can help Linda, why not email me at Deb@pcpolyzine.com and I can
forward your
email to her. One warning, though, when copying copyrighted or patented
items,
selling them without permission, or claiming the design as your own is
off
limits. If you want to make them for your own use, that is another
matter.
Always remember to give credit where credit is due.
Deb
Here is one
from Christine:
Hello,
Somerset
Studio [magazine] recently held a competition in which one had to write
a cinquain (5-line structured
poem) and present it in calligraphy, paper crafts, and/or
rubber-stamping. I
unfortunately missed the competition deadline, but wrote a poem about
light
that I would like to present with a polymer clay/stamping format.
I would like to "print" the poem on a translucent clay sheet, in
keeping with the light theme. However, I don't want to use letter
stamps on the
clay itself to write the poem. I would like the printing instead to be
smooth
and black, maybe dressed up a little with some sparkle embossing powder.
I have been thinking and researching how I could transfer the "poem
image" to the clay, but can't think of how I could do this without the
writing coming out backwards on the clay sheet.
Do you have any ideas on how I could create a transfer image with the
printing
in reverse, so that when I transfer it to the translucent clay sheet,
it will
be right side out?
Thank you.
Christine Krause
Christine…this
one is easy,
because I learned the hard way!
When
we wanted to make
static cling stickers for the windows of our espresso hut, I got some
sheets
from the office supply store, and went to it. I designed them, edited
them, and
printed them. Excitedly, I went to the printer tray and…
Backwards
they were….
SO,
simply put, tell your
printing program to reverse the print (it might also be referred to as
"mirror image"), so when you lay it on the clay, it faces
right side up.
And
please, do send in
photos of your poem on clay.
Deb
(who always found Haiku
hard enough to write)
And now, this
from Cheryl, who has been doing some
creative planning:
Hi,
I am not even a novice yet - I have
never touched polymer clay. But I have an idea that I would like to
play with -
if polymer clay can be made weatherproof. Is it? Can it be made
so? Thanks
very much for your help!
Cheryl, the answer is yes, according to some of my sources. For more
information,
I will refer you to Dianne Black’s Glassattic:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/MainPages/outdoor_snowglobes_fountains.htm
One
suggestion – make
something small and replaceable and try it in the weather for a summer
or
winter. See if you like any changes. You may find the aging makes it
better!
Deb
Now, remember
the woman who asked about boiling
clay? A reader, Janey, has another take on
that
curing method:
Deb, just for the lady who wanted to
know about the above topic...
I have always cured poly clay in an
electric skillet, just sitting on a tile, maybe with a little parchment
paper
to keep it from getting too glossy where it is in contact with the
tile. I
bought two square skillets with the high
covers meant for frying chicken (I think). Got a good oven thermometer,
set the
dial to 275 degrees, and watched them like a hawk, to make sure they
weren't
spiking above that temperature. When I was satisfied that they would
behave
well, I stuck practice pieces in both, some big, some little. I have
NEVER
burned a batch of items, but did have one mishap. I used some of the
very first
green Kato clay that I'd had on hand for 8 months. It melted - into a big puddle, right off the other colors
it was applied to YIKES!
So, I would suggest this person try an electric skillet, MINUS the
water, and
see what she thinks. Again, cure something unimportant first, and good
luck!
Janey Wicherski
Thanks,
Janey. That sounds
like you have done nothing less than making an oven out of an electric
skillet.
I have one of those that was a wedding gift in the last century, so I
think I
will try it for those days that are just too beastly hot to be baking,
or to
bake in my studio. Thanks again!
Deb
Hi
-
First,
I want to thank you for your long hours & dedication to polyzine so
that
we the readers have an excellent source of information and inspiration.
I
favor FIMO Classic, however, my hands are begging for softer clay and I
could
also save time with conditioning clay. I am not willing to give up the
strength
and support that FIMO Classic is known for. Is FIMO Soft as strong as
FIMO
Classic? If not, how does FIMO Soft
compare to Premo?
Thank you,
Caroline
Caroline,
on behalf of our
esteemed Publisher, let me thank you for your appreciation!
On
my own behalf, I think
Premo is easier to condition and tougher after curing than FIMO Soft.
FIMO is
really too hard for me to deal with, since I am very impatient, and an
old
softball injury to my hand makes conditioning it difficult. That said,
I think
Cernit is the easiest to work with. My hands tend to be warm, and it
becomes
workable very quickly. It has a lovely sheen when cured, and is very
tough.
Doll makers often prefer it, and I love to condition it. I personally
prefer
Premo to the FIMO clays.
Let
us know what you think.
Deb
Publisher’s Note: My personal thanks to Deb Hayes
for
the many hours she devotes to researching your questions. She is a gem
of a
co-worker and I love her like crazy. Now, if I could just find a way
for her to
feed me (she’s a really good cook, but we live thousands of miles
apart).
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