Dear Readers,

Welcome to Just Ask. I am here to answer your questions…if I don’t know the answer, I will research it with our team of experts and give you THEIR answers. Email me at: Deb@pcPolyzine.com.

Hello, and thanks for being available for questions.  I have played around
a bit with polymer clay, and love its capabilities.  I am getting ready to
tackle a project and would like some info.  I would like to make drawer
pulls and knobs to resemble either granite or stone for my new kitchen
that we are in the process of remodeling.  The colors are gray, navy blue and white.  What technique should I use to get the effect that I want?  Thank you so much.  

Karla

Well, Karla, I have one word: Granitex. It’s a Sculpey product which comes in several colors, and that has small fibers in it, which, when cured, make the clay look like stone. I would suggest buying a small package, making a sample drawer pull or two, and seeing how it holds up.

I would be extra careful to make sure the clay is cured long enough, because you sure don’t want the pull breaking and falling off the cookie cupboard!

I hope this helps—remember, we LOVE pictures!

Now, this from Doug:

I have a beautiful snow globe about 2 years old.  The water has turned cloudy brown.  I see no plug.  How can I fix this and what happened to cause it to cloud?  Thanks.

Well, Doug, without knowing what the scene was made of, and what the solution inside it is, I would be hard pressed to provide much help. However, that being said, I would suggest carefully opening it at the seam (they are usually glued shut), rinsing everything, and trying to re-fill the globe.

If it is a polymer clay scene (most are not), discoloration may be a result of degradation of the clay due to exposure to sunlight. It could be that something in the solution is discoloring for the same reason, as well. Perhaps a small bit of something alive, such as bacteria or fungus has gotten inside, and changed the color.

Try the re-fill and let us know how it turns out!

Deb

Dear Deb:

I have made many canes over the last eight years or so and lots of them have turned out beautifully and others are wrapped in plastic wrap in a drawer and hide in shame. I have no problem with technique and precision (I have a dollhouse and understand patience)...it's that crazy color wheel! I seem to be hit and miss on it when my canes are reduced and the eye perceives colors somewhat differently. 

So back to the color wheel. I've read a lot of theories, but is there a basic reliable formula such as split complimentaries, triad, tetrad that work best for caning? I understand that color is a personal thing and tastes vary greatly, but there is a science to it as well. Any help you may be able to give from your experiences would be much appreciated. After 8 years, I will need a new drawer soon. Thanks so much!

Monica

P.S.  Love your magazine, I just found it a year or so ago and am still enjoying all your past issues!!

Thank you so much for the warm fuzzies, Monica…we rather love the ‘zine, too!

I went to our esteemed Publisher for help, and boy, oh boy, did she! Here are some links that may guide you through the color maze:

www.colorcube.com 

www.colorschemer.com

www.pcpolyzine.com/2004march/makinsruler.html

www.polymerclaycentral.com/cyclopedia/color.html

http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/color.htm

www.dickblick.com--Color Mixing Recipe Cards by William F. Powell from Walter Foster Publishing Co. The cards are available from Dick Blick Art Supply and are reasonably priced.

www.pcpolyzine.com/2004january/uglyduckling.html

And although we were all taught differently, Blue and Yellow Don’t Make Green by Michael Wilcox from School of Color Publishing is a must-read.

Please feel free to let me know if these help, won’t you?

Thanks!

Deb

Hi,
I have a question may be you can answer it. I read the article about the Flex Mold RTV Silicone mold material and I wonder if this material is food-safe? Can it be used to mold chocolate? If not is there any kind of molding material available that is food-safe? I want to thank you for answering my question.

MM

MM—

I got this from the Dow-Corning website (http://www.dowcorning.com/content/moldmaking/moldfood/default.asp):

“Ice, chocolate, other candy, and specialty foods can be cast or molded into specialty decorative shapes by using silicone rubber moldmaking materials. Silastic® E, Silastic® J, Silastic® L, Silastic® M and Silastic® M-2 silicone rubbers are recommended for these applications because of the food-contact status. 

These rubbers, when properly cured and cleansed, are acceptable for food contact in accordance with the requirements of FDA Regulation 21 CFR 177.2600, subject to end-user compliance with any applicable total extractives limitations. This regulation covers rubber articles intended for repeated use.”

I hope this helps!

Deb

I am trying to find food grade silicone, the easiest method like your one to one ratio to make my own molds to put on my cakes I sell. Do you sell it? Thanks. Christy Duet

Sorry, Christy, we do not sell it, but if you read the letter above, you will get more info on food safe molding compounds!

Thanks for asking.

Deb

Can I cook polymer clay beads in hot water in an electric skillet? Thanks. Jo

Well, Jo, I would stick with the tried and true oven curing at recommended temperatures. To be fully cured, the clay needs to reach the correct temperature and remain there for a certain length of time. (Times vary among brands, so be sure to read package instructions) since water boils at only 212 Fahrenheit, it would not be hot enough to satisfy me. Remember, under-cured clay will not have the strength of their properly cured bead brethren. 

So I guess the answer is, “Try if you like, but don’t expect great results,” or as an electrician friend liked to say, “When in doubt, read the directions.”

Deb

We had a recent question about interference colors in mica powders. Here is some more information thanks to Robin:

Deb, you might add to the info about interference colors that they are most effective used on dark backgrounds. For instance, perhaps a stamped design in black clay can be highlighted with several interference colors for very dramatic results.

Robin Gillett

Thanks very much, Robin for paying such close attention, but more importantly, for helping me out.

Deb,

Working with clay, I've found that when you open packaged clay, some kinds are harder and some are really soft. Which brand names are the best to use for the creative artist? Also, I am fascinated with clay animals. I've made a pig, penguin, and even tried to make a parrot! Do you know where I can find more little critters to make?

Brittany

I know what you mean, Brittany. Some clays turn to crumbs as soon as you start trying to condition them, and others turn to silly putty. For me, it’s the most frustrating thing about our art, besides leaving beads in the oven to cool and finding them burnt to a crisp after I’ve preheated the oven for dinner!

I use two primary rules:  If it’s too hard, add softener, and if it’s too soft, leach out the extra plasticizers.

If you’ve ever left clay on paper, and come back to find a “grease” spot on the paper, you’ve seen leaching in action. The plasticizers are drawn out, or leached from the clay, and you’re left with stiffer clay. To leach a larger amount, just flatten your clay as much as you can (widest setting on the pasta machine) and lay it on several sheets of plain white copy or typing paper, place several more sheets on top, and add a heavy book or other weight. Check back often after the leaching begins, because sometimes it goes quickly.

I like to use Sculpey III for my kids’ classes, because it’s pretty easy to use right out of the package and their small hands usually have enough strength to make it workable pretty quickly. The drawback there is that the cured clay is much more brittle than the other brands, especially in thin or pointed pieces. I wouldn’t use it for a keepsake item, although for something that wouldn’t be handled much, or dropped at all, Sculpey II could be a fine choice.

Prēmo! by Sculpey is a very sturdy clay, and it’s pretty easy to condition as well. It’s very strong when cured, and comes in some amazing colors.

Cernit is a very soft clay, which cures to an amazing look and feel. I understand that doll makers use it for its lifelike translucence when cured. I have used it, and it’s one of the clays that I need to chill, because my hot little hands melt it quickly.

FIMO is very stiff, but very strong when cured. Its sibling, FIMO Soft, is much easier to condition, and has some special effects clay available, too.

Now, to answering your critter question. I am a big fan of how-to videos, and this website http://www.mindstorm-inc.com/pages/vid.html has links to and samples of a *ton* of videos and DVDs. They have videos for kids and adults, and I can personally recommend them. 

Design Originals is a company that prints small books, with several dozen (it seems) on critters of all kinds. I have several of their books, as well, and like them, too.

Thanks for writing, see you soon!

Deb

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is that for June. We have had a wedding in the family, and had a houseful of company, including our two granddaughters, Mary and Katharine. (I am off to take a nap!) I hope you got some of your questions answered. If not, remember, July is a new month, so Just Ask!