Here
is Diane's advice for
removing the
tops from medicine bottles.
These images are full size.
 |
 |
A sample of what
some of the bottles
will look like when
you receive them.
Note the bottles on
the left have had
labels removed. |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
I
found that the injection bottles which had
rubber stoppers covered partially by a metal rim could be pried off
with
pliers. Some were a tad more difficult than others, but I just had to experiment a bit. I
found that
even using ordinary pliers, most metal rims could be removed by using a
slow, prying motion, rather than opening like a glass beer bottle,
as shown in image, upper right.
What
worked best for me was to turn the
bottle "upside down" and then put the top pliers jaw under the bottom
rim,
then pry slowly but firmly (rather than opening it like a glass beer
bottle
right side up). Occasionally I had to try several spots around the rim,
but not often.
Afterward,
I dropped the bottles and stoppers
or caps into hot soapy water, stirred well with the end of a spoon,
then
let them sit awhile. Each one was rinsed out separately later, and left
to dry overnight. (Now I use a colander inside a large cheap plastic
bowl
so that I can lift them out repeatedly and rinse without even having to
use my hands.)
The
labels on all the glass bottles I had
pulled off easily after one corner was raised with a fingernail (a
spoon
tip works well if you don't have a thumbnail). The label on the plastic
Heparin bottle was definitely more difficult, but I hadn't soaked it
very
long.
I don't think the labels
actually need
to be removed, but it's nice to start with a clean surface.
Diane
has more tips at her Glass
Attic website.

Kim's tutorial on covering
the bottle.
click on
images to see
larger versions
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Lay clean bottle on
a sheet of scrap clay
and trim to fit. Cut so that the edges meet cleanly, with no overlap.
Roll
bottle all the way over clay then roll back. You will see the line to
cut. |
Butt seams together
and smooth with fingers
or handle of needle tool. Rock fingers gently from left to right, over
seam line so they stick together well. |
With blade or craft
knife, cut V-shaped
notches around neck of bottle. Cut just enough out so that clay fits
neatly
around smaller neck and opening. |
Begin to ease
notches together. Check
all sides to see if clay is pulling. I usually cut three notches. |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Gently pinch notches
together to fit around
neck and bottle opening. Smooth with fingers or handle of metal tool. |
Use handle of tool
(I'm using a needle
tool) to roll up and down between neck and bottle to retain shape. |
Lay bottle on work
surface. With blade
held even to top of bottle, trim excess. |
Cut thin slices of
background color. Here
I've used a layered slab of green striped clay. If using plain clay,
cover
as shown in first steps. |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Run slices through
pasta machine at thin
setting. I used #4. If you don't have a pm, roll out with brayer or
acrylic
rod or rolling pin. Keep as uniform thickness as possible. |
Begin laying on
slices to cover scrap
clay. Trim edges as closely as possible to avoid overlap. If clay is
patterned,
try to keep seams in one area of bottle. |
Use scraps to fill
in gaps. Here, I happened
to have a piece that fit perfectly. |
Use fingers and tool
handles to smooth
seams and spread clay evenly. |
|