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Hi,
I have been working with Sculpey clay for about a year
now and I have progressed to making
bowls and clocks with the clay. My problem is I condition the clay by
hand (I do not have a pasta machine as yet) and I roll it out and it
looks all smooth, no bubbles, and then I bake it at the recommended
temperature. And instead of a smooth surface, I am getting bubbles in
my
baked clay. What am I doing wrong?
I never get bubbles in clay figures that I make so what am I
doing wrong.
Thanks so much for your help; this has been driving me crazy. I would
like to
sell my clay items, but I won't until I am sure they are of
good quality.
Thanks
again -
Dorothy Clarke
<>Hi, Dorothy…my first
thought
is that if you’re not getting bubbles in your figures, but in the
flatter
objects, it must be the rolling of the clay that’s causing the grief.
My
suggestion would be that you make certain you are rolling away from the
fold of
the clay, rather than into the fold, which can trap bubbles. Since
you’re using
Sculpey, it is also possible you’re overworking the clay before you
roll it. It
gets soft, and it seems that softer clay cause more bubbles. >
<>
Let us know if we need to
investigate this further, OK?
Deb
>
Hello
Bottles of Hope,
I need some help. I have just started a Bottles of Hope project at my
local
hospital. What can I do about clay pieces that break off after they
have been
baked? I don't know much about polymer clay. What type of glue works
good on
clay and glass?
Thank you. Toodles.
Mel
Mel,
the very first thing I
would check is the brand of clay. The Sculpey clays are the most
brittle, with
the white being the worse of the two.
If
you were to use Premo! or
FIMO, or the fairly new Kato Polyclay, the result would be stronger. In
fact,
Premo! is very flexible when cured in thin pieces, so I would suggest
you use
it for items with projections.
As
far as gluing glass and
clay, as long as the object wouldn’t be subjected to high heat, as in a
hot car
or being worn on a hot day, I think one of the cyanoacrylate glues
would be
fine. Lisa Pavelka sells a new glue that is said to be very strong,
even when
used to cure clay to clay. Her site is www.Heartinhandstudio.com.
Of course, to glue raw clay to raw clay or raw to cured clay, you can
use one
of the liquid clays as a glue, as well.
One
more note: make sure your oven is
calibrated for the
corrected temperature, and that you are following the manufacturer’s
directions
for curing the brand of clay you choose.
Good
Luck!
Deb
Could
you please tell me
where I might find PearlEx, or Mica Powders? I usually shop at
"Michaels", but they don't seem to carry it. Also, what is the proper name to use when searching for the
stuff on the Internet?
Thanks
Teresa Parsons
You
have it already, Teresa!
The generic term IS mica powders, since they are made of
finely ground mica.
If
you did a Google search
for that term, you would find over 18,000 hits. For purposes of
buying them, PearlEx is the brand name of
mica powders from Jacquard and Powdered Pearls is
the brand name
for powders from Lemon Tree. There are
also brand names called Perfect Pearls and a fourth
product called Mona Lisa Authentic Metallic Powders
from Houston Art.
Finding
an online source
won’t be difficult, but if you do have access to a Michael’s store, I
would
suggest you look for the Pearl-Ex brand, perhaps in a variety pack. The
nearest
Michael’s to me has the somewhat iffy distinction of being the smallest
store
in the Michael’s chain, and I did find them there. However, they were
in the
stamping section near embossing powders, and not with the polymer clay
supplies.
<>Let us know how your
search
turns out, will you?
>
Deb
Hello
Deb
I
am an avid British
follower of pcPolyzine. My question to you is, what is the
British version of
varathane? I am struggling to find a non-yellowing varnish to finish my
beads.
Can you pleeeeeeeeeeeease help?
<>Best regards,
Lorna>
Lorna,
I
have checked Sue
Heaser’s site, the Polymer Clay Pit, and in her varnish section, she
says that
Aleene's water-based Acrylic Matt Varnish is a good substitute for FIMO
Matte
varnish, which has been discontinued.
Publisher’s
Note: Here at
pcPolyzine, we are definitely an ensemble cast, so when one of us
doesn’t have
all the answers, we count on the rest of us – or in this case, one of
our
near and dear friends – to provide the information . . .
Hello
Jeannie,
Deb
has asked
me to offer advice regarding UK
available finishes equivalent to Flecto Varathane.
I
generally use FIMO Spirit
Gloss varnish - it can be made less glossy by addition of
Nitrocellulose paint
thinners or Toluene.
Water
based finishes are
available, such as the one Sue Heaser sells at her Claypit - Aleene's
matt.
I've
been trying something
which is designed for hardwood floor protection. It's a water based
acrylic
varnish which has a silk/matt finish. The product's called 'Aqualac'
and can be
bought at hardware shops or online at Screwfix Direct at 14.99 GBP per
2.5
litres. Myself and a couple of other English clayers have used it for a
couple
of years with no disasters - as far as I know.
Screwfix
also sell a very
good carnauba-based wood wax which could be used instead of Future (in
the UK
Future is called Johnson's Klear)
I
hope that answers the
query adequately.
Alan
[Vernall]
<>Finally, a question
from Sharon,
and it has
nothing at all to do with polymer clay!>
<>
Hi ->
My
friend was making some
olive bread for a Greek dinner. The recipe called for whole meal flour.
We have
checked everywhere and no one has any idea what it is.
<>Thanks
Sharon>
Sharon, in a nutshell, it is the same as
whole-grain or
whole-wheat flour. Whole meal is the term widely used in the UK and
some
other European countries. The bread sounds great. Do you share recipes?
Well,
I need to go work on
my Halloween costume. I think I will go out as a famous radio star.
That way, I
can wear what I want!
If
you have questions about
clay, or even cooking, Just Ask!
Deb
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