INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1: Roll a base for your barrette

Using the thickest setting on your pasta machine, roll a base for your barrette that will be at least twice as large as your pattern.  Cut the sheet of clay in half and set one half aside for later.  (Note: Sculpey III can be brittle and subject to breaking.  If you are using Sculpey III, you will need to either double the thickness of your barrette base, or mix the Sculpey III with a stronger clay to prevent breakage.)  Lay the barrette base on your work surface and check to see that your barrette pattern will fit.

Step 2: Decorate the surface of your barrette base

In the photos, I’ve used floral canes to decorate the barrette base (Fig.1).  Start with slices from a leaf cane.  Cut the slices as thin as you can (paper thickness). Lay the leaves out in a random pattern and roll them even with the base clay’s thickness by using an acrylic rod (Fig. 2).  Repeat with the next cane design, rolling the cane slices smooth before adding the next layer (Fig. 3).  I used 4 cane layers on the base for this barrette (Fig. 4).  You can use more or less, as you like.

Fig. 1	Fig. 2
Fig. 3	Fig. 4

Step 3: Cut out your barrette base and bake on the light bulb

Use your pattern and an X-Acto knife to cut the shape you would like your barrette to be.  Carefully lift the shape off your work surface with your clay blade (you may need to loosen it from the work surface by sliding your blade underneath it).  Lay the cut piece on your spotlight bulb, centering it and sealing it down.  Gently press the edges to make sure they are completely stuck to the glass.  Pre-heat your oven to 275 degrees (use an oven thermometer to ensure the correct temperature).  Place the light bulb on its side on the baking pan and place the pan in your oven with the face of the bulb as far away from the heating element as possible.  (Note: in toaster ovens, face the bulb toward the door, just barely clearing the door when closed.  This will prevent scorching of the clay when the heating element cycles back on.)  Bake for 30 minutes.  Cool the clay on the bulb completely before going on to the next step.

If you are concerned about your toaster oven spiking or your clay scorching, try two 15-minute baking sessions with a slight cool down in between, instead of one 30-minute session. This is especially important if your canes contain white or light colored Sculpey III. I tend to watch my barrettes pretty closely to check for yellowing of any kind and whisk them out if I see anything like that.

Step 4: (Optional step) Sand the barrette base and/or attach the border

Sanding the barrette base while it’s still on the light bulb is the easiest way to sand it.  It should stay on the light bulb even when wet.  Use a drop or two of dish liquid in a bowl of warm water, and wet both the barrette base and the 400 grit sandpaper.  Sand in a circular motion for approximately 15-30 seconds, then use the next grit, and so on.  Rinse and dry the barrette base, especially the edges where the border will attach.

To make the border, roll a pinkie-sized log of clay from the base clay you set aside in Step 1, and wrap it with a small piece of wax paper.  You want the wax paper just long enough to cover one end with about an inch extra.  Place the log of clay into the barrel of the clay gun, which has been fitted with the 1/8" hole disc.  (You can use other sizes of disc for this, and other shapes, too.)  Place the Poly-Tools caulking gun adapter into the caulking gun and squeeze out a rope of clay long enough to pass around your barrette blank once or twice, as desired. 

Use the wooden skewer to place a thin layer of liquid clay around the edge of the barrette base. (Note: the amount of liquid clay should be just enough to moisten the baked clay, but not enough to be milky white). Slice one end of the clay rope so the end is cut cleanly, and begin wrapping the rope around the barrette base, pressing it to the liquid clay. When you reach the beginning of the rope, cut the excess and smooth the seam.  You can do double ropes, embellish the ropes, or do single ones, like the examples below.  Bake the barrette base again for 30 minutes and allow to cool completely before going on to the next step.  While the barrette base is cooking, unscrew the disc from the clay gun and remove it.  Press the rest of the clay through the clay gun, pulling the plug out with the wax paper still attached.  The barrel of the gun should be fairly clean and need only to be wiped out with a paper towel. 

Step 5: Attach the French clip or pin back

Roll the rest of the base clay on a medium-thick setting on your pasta machine.  Cut another piece from your pattern.  Pop the barrette base off of the light bulb and turn it over.  Moisten the back of the barrette base with liquid clay and place the raw clay to it, matching the curve and shape of the barrette base.  Again, use just enough liquid clay to moisten the baked clay, but not enough to be milky white. Press the edges of the raw clay flush against the edge of the baked clay, and check carefully for any air bubbles.  If you find an air bubble, pop it with the tip of your X-Acto knife.

Clean the base of the French clip or pin back with alcohol and wipe dry.  Center it onto the raw clay and press it in, so that the prongs on the clip are deeply embedded into the clay and some has squeezed up into the space at the center.  If desired, you can press a narrow strip or two of clay across the ends of the clip or bar of the pin back to hold them in place.  Put the barrette, upside down, onto your baking pan.  Bake for the last time, at 275 degrees for 30 minutes.  Cool completely and if desired, polish with a brush-on water based sealer.

As an alternative reinforcing idea, I added a large drop of liquid clay over each of the holes in the ends of the clip before baking the last time. I think it gives a nicer ifnish and is still just as strong a bond as solid clay would be. Either way, it's important to make sure the reinforcement doesn't interfere with the working joints of the clip.

Below are some examples of barrettes I’ve created over the years with polymer clay.  They are very strong and have held up very well!