Welcome toJust Ask. I am here to answer your
questions…if
I don’t know the answer, I will research it with our team of experts
and
give you THEIR answers. Email me at: Deb@pcPolyzine.com.
xxxxx
The
topic featured in this issue of Just Ask is a good example of how I
research a question when I don't know the answer, or parts of the
answer, myself. I received a question from Carol about using real horse
hair with polymer clay. Jeannie Havel (the pcPolyzine publisher)
recommended I contact North Carolina equestrian artist, Linda Douglas
for some expert advice. Hopefully Linda's detailed response will answer
Carol's question and any you might have about horse hair, too.
Deb
PS - Look for
the
link at the end of this article to view the polymer clay art of Linda
Douglas.
Hello,
I am fairly new to the
exciting world of
polymer. I have made 3 unicorns to date. The last I did was a bust. I
added
real horse hair to it. My question is how to add the hair? The glue was
messy,
hot glue left a residue. I read about folks rooting it. Can the hair go
into
the clay then the oven? Will it fry it there? What is a better mane and
where
can I buy the mohair?
Thanks so much
for ANY help, Carol
Adding
hair for manes and tails on horses is a little more complicated
to do than for human figures. The doll/fairy artists have a
few options for incorporating hair, but most make a central
hole in
the middle of the back of head, bake the figure, then glue the hair
into place,
then style. Some artists wrap a piece of raw clay over the ends of
the
hair and place into the hole, baking again, then separating the
hair
around head as they style. The last option is a true "rooting"
process that embeds the hair into the clay. Usually the
entire figure
and front of the ace w/ears are completed (to the hairline)
and baked, so details are preserved. Then the back of the head is
added as
a ball of raw clay, and beginning at the outer hairline the
strands of
hair are pushed deep into clay and hair is added towards
center.
Horses however have thin muscles in the neck and
the mane
grows out the top flowing down (usually on the right side) of the
crestline, making
it impossible to use the dollmakers options.
Many considerations go into sculpting standing animals
and I make my armatures of "very" heavy wire to
support body weight plus clay on thin legs, then bulk with
foil much thinner
overall especially in the neck area. I sculpt from the bottom
making and
baking legs first, then up the body to (the withers) where the
shoulder
blades meet the neck at the top of back with several bakings, not to
lose
muscle definition when handling. I sculpt up the
neck to
head/ears and all finishing details (skipping both sides of neck just
below the
mane area) then bake again.
Now we are
ready to "root" the hair and I roll two snakes of clay the length from
the poll (between ears) to the withers (end of neck). The snakes
are the muscles of
the mane.
I flatten them and set them aside until later. I like to lay out
enough mohair (check how long for mane) then cover the entire
length of
one snake
pressing small amounts of hair into the clay and a separate piece
for the
forelock at the end of the snake between the ears. I use a
small
scissor to trim the excess hair ends. Next I roll over the
snake with
a brayer flattening/widening it further which allows a little clay to
curl/fold over and encasing the ends of the hairs inside the
snake. I do a
quick cleanup of loose hairs, then lift the hairy snake and place
on
the neck, then press it down carefully blending in the
raw snake
over the baked neck clay.
Next I
lay my horse flat on the table with the hairy snake
side down, but position the mane away from both sides of the body. This
allows
me to apply the second snake to the other side of the neck
and blend
the underside of the mane. I use a round tool to push the clay
back
towards the hairs on the top of the neck, closing any gaps. The
last step is to blend whatever coloring, which I do as I
sculpt and before baking each area, but some artists prefer
to paint
the entire sculpt afterwards. On the last bake I wrap the entire
sculpt in
polyester fiberfill and cover the pan with a tinfoil tent. Only
a "short bake" -- enough to cure the thickness of the flat
snake, since the sculpt has already been baked several times.
I have
a convection oven that bakes with hot-air and no exposed heating
elements
to catch the hair on fire. If there’s concern, the
final curing
can be done with a heat gun or a hair dryer, but be extremely careful
not to
get too close to the hair or it will shrivel up to a melted mess
if it scorches.
Finally, pluck your Wild Hairs!
What materials
make the best manes? I
find that the size of the strand in natural horsehair is much
thicker for
manes on a full body sculpt and is way too bulky much less trying
to apply
it to a tail. Most of my horses/unicorns are 14" or more and
even the
natural human hair is a little thick, making it harder to
work. Mohair is a thin fiber and allows full coverage
without being
bulky.
Mohair can get
pricey
from dollmaker suppliers, but it is available
on-line at some polymer clay supply sites. I get all my
supplies from ClayAlley.com
and
the owner, Karen Rhodes always has "excellent"
friendly advice, as well as fast shipping service. Tell her
the NC Horse Lady sent ya and I hope this helps your
horses get
a handsome hair do!